The Flat White: Australia Versus New Zealand

If there’s one thing you must know about these two nations, it’s that they have a pretty strong rivalry. There are too many things they rival about to list here, but I want to focus on one in particular: The Flat White. I want to discuss a bit of its history and how it takes shape in the modern lives of Aussies and Kiwis.

Flat White History, Oversimplified

I’m a bit of a coffee nut. I like experimenting with beans, grind size, brew methods, and generally learning about the chemistry at play. I also enjoy odd bits of food history, so it’s no surprise that I would want to investigate this Flat White throw-down.

Both sides seem to agree that the first incarnation of the flat white was developed in Australia– Sydney, to be precise— but that the modern form we see today was actually developed and perfected in Wellington, New Zealand. The flat white is made with two ristretto shots, which I just only recently learned about, which are more concentrated shots because they are pulled with less water than a normal espresso shot. You add full-fat milk that has been heated but not steamed, and voila! Flat white. It came into existence for two reasons in Australia: First, the rich immigrant culture from Italy and Greece, two countries that take their coffee very seriously. Second, from the free-range cattle milk that they use in their coffee drinks. Some theorize that because this milk to not foam as nicely, but instead, gives a velvety texture that adds to the drink.

Exhibit A: A Flat White consumed in Melbourne, Australia

It was then exported to the United Kingdom in 2005 and eventually made it to the USA wholesale via Starbucks in 2015. End of story, yes? Well, no!

Some say that the drink is actually Kiwi in origin: There are claims that the Flat White was made in Wellington in 1989 by Fraser McInnes, who messed up a cappuccino with less-than-fatty milk, causing the foam to… well, not foam! The foam was between that of a latte and cappuccino, and he apologized to the customer for the “flat white.”

Regardless of who made it, it’s a tasty treat! So, who did it better during my trip?

Flat Whites Compared

Australia

To be perfectly fair here, I was in Melbourne, which is touted as the coffee capital of Australia. Australia also touts itself as having some of the best coffee in the world, so the bar for expectations is set pretty high, right off the bat.

I also went to some of the best coffee establishments I could find in the Central Business District (CBD) based on online reviews and recommendations from locals.

Patricia Coffee Brewers is a small takeout-only spot down a small street. The staff are very friendly, and while there will be a wait, due to its popularity, the wait will be worth it! They only have two options: Black or White. White, of course, being the flat white with milk. This was such a lovely cup: great foam, great body, and a wonderful flavor that wasn’t too acidic for me. Absolutely worth the wait!

Duke’s is another landmark roaster and brewer. I, unfortunately, did not have a flat white at their shop while I was there. Instead, I purchased some of their beans for drip coffee at home. Their drip was insanely good! It had a good texture to it and brought out some nice darker flavors without sacrificing the fruitiness of the bean. I can only imagine the flat white must be just as magical!

Exhibit B: Brother Baba Budan, from Seven Seeds Coffee Roasters. Must visit!

Brother Baba Budan is a place I will probably never get the name right for! However, the flat white here was fantastic as well! I did burn myself slightly on the coffee here, but it was a tasty treat worth the wait.

New Zealand

While I visited many more cities that Australia, I found the flat whites to be pretty consistent in quality.

In Rotorua I visited Fat Dog Cafe and enjoyed a nice flat white while hiding from the humid, rainy air before shuttling down to Hobbiton. It had a nice texture but the coffee was a bit generic in its flavor. To be fair, I was really out of it and wet from rain, so my head may not have been in the right space for enjoying a nice cup of coffee.

Exhibit C: A Flat White consumed in Rotorua, New Zealand

In Wellington, I enjoyed Prefab ACME, a nice cafe attached to Acme roasters. Their coffee here was very lovely: It had a really nice richness of flavor and a good texture like I’ve read about before. The interior was awesome, the food was great, and I got to come back and try a lime milkshake here! What’s not to love?

In Auckland, I went to Espresso Workshop Britomart, right near the harbor. I enjoyed a lovely flat white here – nice and aromatic, smooth to drink, and a great accompaniment to a tasty pistachio brownie cake. I call it a brownie cake because I can’t remember clearly which it was and my picture isn’t exactly helpful!

The Verdict

Sadly, as much as I prefer New Zealand, I have to give it to Australia for their flat whites. Now, please note that this is only for Melbourne; I cannot speak for the other regions or cities on the continent and Tasmania, so I might be disadvantaging New Zealand here because I didn’t exclusively focus on their coffee capital. Regardless, I enjoy that they have a milk-based coffee drink of choice since Japanese people tend to get coffee black at most cafes. While I do still prefer drip and immersion cups, a good espresso will be had in either of these fine nations!

If I missed any key details you’d like to add, please leave a comment below! I’d be more than happy to update with new information.

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